I happen to love May and everything that comes along with it: the sunny days, the verdant hills, the many events, the balmy air and.., of course, Cantine Aperte. Italy wouldn’t be Italy if there was no wine involved!
Since 1993, member wineries of MTV (Movemento Turismo Vino) open their doors to personally meet the public on the last Sunday in May.
Tuscany, where outstanding wines and olive oil have been produced for centuries, is chock-full of great wineries. I wrote about some of them in my Cantine Aperte 2015 posts last year.
This year’s visit takes me first to the gorgeous part of Tuscany near Florence and the bordering Chianti Classico region, Figline Valdarno. This medieval town was once known as the barn of Florence. Il Palagio estate, in the countryside, surrounded by vines and dark green, at-attention cypress trees, has been lovingly restored by Sting and his beautiful wife Trudie Styler.
You can stop by, to taste and buy gorgeous wines, olive oil and more. Their Sister Moon is among the best 101 Italian wines.
The farm shop sells everything made or grown on the estate.
Carpineto
What a stunning setting and beautiful winery! Surrounded by Chianti Classico vineyards, planted on steep hillsides to Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes. They produce some gorgeous wines here. We lucked out and had postcard style weather.
Tasting quality Carpineto wines: Dogajolo, Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva and Farnito Cabernet Sauvignon.
Castello di Querceto
This is one of my favourite estates, located in the northeastern corner of the Chianti Classico region.
It’s an unforgettable place in the heart of Tuscany, one of the fabulous castle wineries of the area.
We had a wonderful experience here, and I can highly recommend this family owned and operated winery for lovely wine tastings, or even accommodation in the Chianti Classico region.
Peacocks in the parkBeautiful garden, tended with love and care.
Radda in Chianti
Not too far away is another Tuscan wine mecca – Radda in Chianti. The road to Chianti is picture perfect Tuscany. This landscape with vineyards and olive groves has become familiar through its depiction in Italian Renaissance paintings, and every corner of it is rich in Tuscan authenticity.
Located halfway between Florence and Siena, the Castello di Radda wine estate lies atop a hill facing the town of Radda in Chianti.
This winery is one of the biggest in the area, and the surrounding scenery is simply gorgeous!
The view was amazing and the estate maintained impeccably. In the glass: Castello di Radda Toscana IGT Rosato.
Vittoria gave us a detailed explanation, a true immerson in the world of Castello di Radda and its working philosophy.
Il Borro
I previously wrote about this estate a year ago, I like it so much and I visit several times a year.
A great stop for winetastings!
The stunning pool overlooking the undulating countryside. Life should always be like this…
The village of Il Borro – a journey into medieval Tuscany.
Tenuta La Pineta
A big reason for visiting Tuscany is to not just sample the great wines, but to have it served to you by the families who make it. We spent a lovely afternoon touring the vineyard and heard Luca share with us his love and passion for winemaking.
And here are some of the gorgeous products you can take home to remind you of your visit to this beautiful region.
The Bufalini Castle in the town centre of San Giustino is a must-see. Once a medieval fort of San Giustino, aimed to defend the territory of the larger town of Città di Castello, the castle we see today is a rare example of a noble residence.
It has recently reopened its gates to welcome visitors into its beautiful Italian garden with mazes of the late 17th century.
The Renaissance complex, which Giovanni Magherini Graziani used to call ‘a villa within a fortress‘, is surrounded by fortified walls.
In 1487 the castle became property of the Bufalini family, and Niccolò di Manno Bufalini from the nearby Città di Castello financed the reconstruction of the military fortress, succeeded by his great-grandchildren who, between 1530 and 1560, decorated it with artworks including frescoes by Cristofano Gherardi (Sansepolcro 1508 – 1556).
I loved the sense of discovery as I stepped inside the castle.
The collection we can admire here today conveys the atmosphere once lived by an ancient Umbrian family, through artworks, fine furniture, ceramics and crystals. A family, whose members distinguished themselves in military, ecclesiastical, literary and juridical spheres while serving the Papal States, the House of Medici, the House of Este, and some Spanish, French and English royal families.
The Stucco Room, or Gallery of Strong Women: a set of red velvet carved wood chairs made in the Marche region, and beautiful stucco framing a series of paintings on canvas showing tales of strong women.The Cardinal’s Room
Open on Sundays and holidays, tickets €5.
Read about more sites to visit in the area in The Upper Tiber Valley: More History Along the Hillsides.
“Heaven sometimes shows itself in showering upon one single person the infinite riches of its treasures… the possessors of such rare and numerous gifts are not merely men, but, if it be not a sin to say it, mortal gods”
– Giorgio Vasari
Raffaello was born in Urbino “at three o’clock of the night on Good Friday, in the year 1483” to Giovanni de’ Santi, a painter and a loving father, who put a brush in his son’s hand almost as soon as the boy could hold it. Giovanni was Federico da Montefeltro’s court painter and poet. Federico died the year before Raphael was born, but the artist had the opportunity to learn the manners and social skills under the rule of Federico’s son – Guidobaldo.
Still a boy, Raphael became a great help at his father’s workshop, and later on, a brilliant student of Pietro Perugino.
Raphael’s birthplace in via Raffaello, UrbinoA monument of the accomplished artist marks one of the city’s highest points
“There seems to breathe a spirit of divinity, which makes whoever marvel how a human brain could make painted things appear alive…”
Church of St. Francis, Città di Castello, Umbria
For the nearby Città di Castello a very young Raphael created masterpieces that determined the fundamental stage of his artistic development (1499-1504), like the altarpiece for the church of Sant’Agostino, Raphael’s first registered work, or the Crucifixion for the church of San Domenico which, “if his name were not written upon it, no one would believe to be a work by Raffaello, but rather by Pietro”. And then, of course, the little panel-picture of the Marriage of The Virgin for the church of San Francesco, in which one may recognize the excellence of Raffaello increasing. And it is exciting to think that Urbino and Città di Castello marked the very beginning of his destiny, which will later lead him to the Papal Apartments in the Palace of the Vatican.
“… by studying the works of other masters, both the old and the new, out of many manners he made one, which was looked upon ever afterwards as his own; he put the best into a collection and enriched the art of painting with a sublime perfection, performing miracles in art, his art was and always will be vastly esteemed by all craftsmen”,
“Those arriving in Urbino unaware of its history and importance come across an unexpected surprise, or rather, a marvel”
– Carlo Bo
Indeed, enchanting is the road that leads us through the verdant hills and unveils in front of our eyes a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Urbino is a walled-in town, which has preserved its Renaissance past. Nestled in the sloping countryside of the Marche region in central Italy, the town doesn’t feel cutesy and touristic, but real and charming, and welcomes visitors with its magnificent Palazzo, untouched by time.
Recounting Palazzo Ducale means retelling Duke Federico da Montefeltro‘s story (1422-1482). The magnificent palace is the result of this man’s great skills. A talented condottiero (he never lost a war) and gifted governor (concerned about the citizens’ problems) Federico da Montefeltro expanded the Duchy’s borders, financed through mercenary warfare while serving the Sforza and the Papal States.
The Duke surrounded himself with talented artists and literary men of the time and accomplished his goal of creating an important site and cultural centre that couldn’t have passed unnoticed.
The Courtyard of the Palace
In 1462-1463 with new financial incomes the project aims to become the most beautiful palace in Italy, an administrative court and a place visited by many eminent people and renowned characters of the time. Luciano Laurana, the architect in charge of this project, fortifies the whole structure, followed by Francesco di Giorgio Martini, who adds an extremely efficient water system. The thermal bath he modeled was a real crown jewel, one of the earliest of its kind in the Renaissance.
Several rooms of the palace reflect Federico’s devotion to classical and humanistic studies. The Studiolo (a small study measuring 3.60 x 3.35m that Federico commissioned for himself) is one of the most interesting rooms, a capstone to his ambitious building program. It reflects a collaboration among the many scholars and fine artists that the Duke gathered to his court, like Boticelli and the young Bramante, an Urbino native, who began his journey to become a master of his craft during this time.
Federico and his beloved second wife Battista Sforza. Federico lost his right eye during a tournament and carried a vast scar. Since then he was portrayed in the aquiline profile.
The study, famous for its trompe l’oeil decoration executed in marquetry, offers a generous view of the lands surrounding Urbino and features a thematic cycle of oil paintings in bright colours on the upper portions of its walls – 28 colourful portraits of the illustrious men: saints, philosophers and scholars. Federico, nicknamed the Light of Italy, enlisted the best copyists and editors in his private scriptorium to create a library, perhaps only second to the Vatican.
Starting from the 19th century Palazzo Ducale has been made a museum, La Galleria Nazionale delle Marche, with plenty of artworks on display and one of the most important collections of Renaissance art in the world: Giovanni Santi, Paolo Uccello (The Miracle of the Desecrated Host, 1465-1469), Titian, Luca Signorelli, Raphael (La Muta, 1507).
La Sala delle Udienze boasts two masterpieces by Piero della Francesca: The Madonna of Senigallia (1470) depicts Our Lady with Child with a pure white rose in hand and a red coral necklace; and the Flagellation (1444-1470) with a number of theories behind the characters represented in the scene.
La Sala degli Angeli houses The Ideal City, one of the most famous paintings, a Renaissance masterpiece, with a theme of perfection that runs all through it.
The beautiful Duomo, designed by architect Francesco di Giorgio Martini, who also worked on Urbino’s Palazzo Ducale.
Not to be missed are also the Oratory of San Giuseppe and its 16th-century Nativity scene with life-size stucco figures by Federico Brandani, and the Oratory of San Giovanni Battista with beautiful frescoes by Lorenzo Salimbeni.
San Domenico Church
The Albornoz Fortress and the park from where you get a beautiful view, it’s a postcard like setting.
The 14th-century Church of St. Francis in Via Raffaello SanzioTime for something sweet at Pasticceria Cartolari in Via RaffaelloAnd if you like gelato, try this place – gelateria La Romana
Stay tuned for my next post: Urbino and Raphael The Divine. Ciao!
Val d’Elsa… there’s something seductively charming about this area, full of humble but beautiful hill towns with quite a few TCI orange flags on the way, immersed in the picturesque surroundings. It’s quintessential Tuscany at its best. I would certainly recommend a drive through this beautiful countryside, as this will give you an opportunity to explore the area at your own leisure.
San Gimignano is a one-of-a-kind hilltop town in the province of Siena, spiked with fine medieval towers, or rather – medieval skyscrapers. They really form an unforgettable skyline, for which it is known internationally.
The historical centre with its unique tower houses, a UNESCO World Heritage SitePiazza della Cisterna and its beautiful buildingsChurch of St Francis
In 998 San Gimignano was still a village along the Via Francigena and belonged to the bishop of Volterra. In High Middle Ages The Franciscan Trail became the route of Catholic pilgrims who travelled to Rome, and the town of San Gimignano was one of the most important transit and stopping points. In 1199 the town gained its independence from the bishops of Volterra and established a podestà.
The town walls, destroyed in the war against the Florentines in 1255, and reconstructed a few years later.
The world’s first ‘Manhattan‘:
Today we can admire 16 of the 72 towers of the thirteenth century, when every well off family would build a stout tower. In medieval times the tower was the higher symbol of power. The house served a defensive function. Workshops occupied the ground floor: this is where they would have had a store. Then there were bedrooms on the first floor, and the higher level consisted of the kitchen, following security rules, as this was the place where the fire was usually lit. There was no interior staircase, so ladders and rope-ladders were used to get inside and reach the upper floors. The front door was narrow and no one wearing armour could possibly enter.
Piazza del Duomo with its mighty main buildings
Palazzo Comunale, built between 1289 and 1298, is one of the most ancient public buildings in Tuscany. It offers gorgeous views (of the town and the whole Val d’Elsa region) from its 54-metre-high tower – La Torre Grossa – San Gimignano’s highest tower. The two upper floors house the town museums: you can visit the Palazzo, the Picture Gallery, the famous room ‘Sala di Dante‘ (where the poet in his role of ambassador of the Guelph League in Tuscany was hosted in 1300), and finally, admire the courtly frescoes and prestigious works by the great Sienese and Florentine artists dating back to the 13th and 17th centuries.
Palazzo Comunale
The Romanesque Duomo is a temple of faith and art. The cathedral’s highlight are the walls, entirely lined with frescoed scenes of the Old and New Testament by Bartolo di Fredi and Lippo and Federico Memmi. They are truly beautiful. And so is the famous Chapel of St. Fina, featuring Domenico Ghirlandaio’s frescoes. The chapel was built in 1468 and houses the shrine of the saint born in San Gimignano in 1238.
The “Twin” towers, erected by the Salvucci family to bypass the Communal Statutes of 1255, according to which no tower in town could be higher than the Podestà’s Tower Rognosa. But the two towers, if put together, were definitely higher!
Piazza della Cisterna, a building-lined triangle, with an octagonal travertine well (that gives the name to the square) and redbrick pavement with irregular triangular patterns.
Salvucci Towers, Palazzo Podestà with its huge arched loggia and La Torre Rognosa (51 metres high). In 1298 the podestà moved to the new Palace, while this building was used as a hotel for distinguished guests.
Rocca di Montestaffoli, a beautiful place. Its only turret open to visitors offers unforgettable views, of both the town’s skyline and gorgeous countryside.
Savouring local produce at Caffè Giardino in Viale Roma 17: here you can taste typical Tuscan dishes, coldcuts, cheeses, wine, as well as pasta, salads and homemade schiacciata, all of this accompanied with a stunning view!
Of course, no visit to San Gimignano is complete without trying its famous wine. Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG is one of the best white wines in Italy, said to inspire popes and poets. Its typical straw-yellow colour with golden nuances and an elegant and delicate bouquet is a journey through the wine of San Gimignano, produced from the ancient variety of Vernaccia grapes which grow on the sandstone hillsides of the area.
On the town’s festive calendar is The Ferie Delle Messi, an annual medieval festival held on the third weekend of June.
Another brilliant example of medieval architecture in the area is Monteriggioni. Erected to keep the powerful neighbours of the Florentine Republic at a safe distance from Siena, its fifteen towers and the encircling walls are the symbol of its former power.
Today, walking down the main street that connects the two gates – La Porta Fiorentina and La Porta Romana – means uncovering legends and panoramas of the past, when the town represented the Sienese gate into the Elsa valley.
Piazza Roma lit by the sun, where vines and olive trees fill the area with gentle twinings.
Walkways along the top of the castle walls with its original 13th-century architectural features, which are oh-so-familiar to all the passionate fans of Ubisoft’s Assassin’s Creed II and Assassin’s Creed: Brotherhood.
Breakfast at Il Feudo, MonteriggioniRocca di Montestaffoli, San Gimignano
Despite the passing of the centuries, both San Gimignano and Monteriggioni managed to preserve their medieval architecture and charm, able to impress the travellers so deeply.
“The landscape is amazing: imagine a boundless amphitheatre that only nature could create”,
– Pliny the Younger (61 – 113 AD) about Valtiberina
Valtiberina, view from Citerna
The Upper-Tiber Valley has a great number of various paths, like those rich in Franciscan lore, linking Assisi and La Verna, the two spiritual poles, where piety, along with art expressions, flourished in all the places that Saint Francis passed through.
The Sanctuary of La Verna(in Tuscany), where The Franciscan Trail begins. It crosses the region in 16 steps, through flourishing woodlands, farmed valleys, paths and places that inspired the saint.
If you like hiking, you’ll discover the untouched natural beauty of the valley with its fascinating history, towns, isolated abbeys, places where miracles took place, the ancient artworks inspired by peace message and love for all living creatures. As you walk, you can admire hillsides dotted with old stone farmhouses, beautiful churches, mountain streams and the amazing panoramas – a wonderful excuse to stop often, catch your breath, and snap some amazing photos.
The Baroque Sanctuary of Madonna di Belvedere, a short distance from Città di Castello (5 km following the SS Apecchiese). Built between 1669 and 1684 with a dome between the two majestic bell towers, it offers beautiful vistas of the town, the valley and the mountains of La Verna and Monte Acuto near Umbertide.
The imposing complex dominates the valley, like the Sanctuary of Canoscio, which I mentioned in another post. From a distance, it appears to me like the one from Raphael’s Marriage of the Virgin, which he painted in 1504 for the Church of St. Francis in Città di Castello.
Colle Plinio – Pliny’s home in the Upper Tiber Valley.
The remains of the ancient ‘Villa in Tuscis’ of Pliny the Younger, brought to light in the 1970s, along with its thermal plant – a Calidarium (hot bath), a Tepidarium (warm bath) and a Frigidarium (a large cold pool), as well as a temple of Ceres, harvest cellars, earthenware, etc.
Villa Magherini Graziani, a splendid example of the early 17th century architecture. This noble estate was completed in 1616 on commission by Carlo Graziani.
The villa houses a museum with numerous finds of the archaeological excavations carried out in 1974, ancient Roman mosaics, tiles and other objects of daily use are on display. Open on Sundays and holidays, tickets €3.
The Republic of Cospaia
For centuries the valley was subjected to the political and military interests of the main powers of Tuscany and Umbria. In 1441 when The Florentine Republic and The Papal States decided to define the borders, the little hill of Cospaia nestled between the two streams flowing into the Tiber, both named Rio and maximum 500 metres away from each other, wasn’t taken into account. This mistake granted the tiny republic (twenty times smaller than San Marino) independence, with no written laws, heads of the state, soldiers or taxes. Cospaia was so small that neither of the bordering powers would fight a war to conquer it. The Republic ran great deals with both the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and the Church. Its inhabitants lived independent lives for almost four centuries. An early centre for tobacco production (started in 1574), this small strip of land became the capital of Italian tobacco. Today, Cospaia is a hamlet of the comune of San Giustino.
Terme di Fontecchio, Città di Castello, 3 km away from the city centre. These thermal baths were already known in Roman times, when Pliny the Younger accompanied his wife Calpurnia to “maintain her beauty and grace”. Equipped with diagnostic and therapeutic centers, the Spa offers various treatments and genuine relaxation thanks to the properties of its sulphurous waters and mud.
La Verna, rising above the valley of the Casentino, a few kilometres from the small town of Chiusi della Verna, is one of the most important places of devotion for Franciscans. Numerous visitors find the place really moving. I guess because it awakens your senses and combines all the crucial elements for reflection and communion with nature. Here you can relax and restore your spirit.
The Sanctuary can be reached by car, driving along the winding road lined up with spruce and beech trees of the National Park of Casentino forests.
This pilgrimage site, situated in the centre of the Tuscan Apennines, about 43 km northeast of Arezzo and 120 km northwest of Assisi, offers priceless views and silence of the remote countryside, which justifies the special affection of the visitors.
The mountain known as La Verna was given to Saint Francis by Count Orlando of Chiusi in 1213, as a retreat for contemplation. In 1224 St. Francis withdrew to it to pray and fast. During this time he received the Stigmata (the wounds of Christ).
The main entrance to the Sanctuary, easily reachable from the parking area, and the welcoming statue of St. Francis with a child.
The Chapel of the Stigmata is reached by a long corridor frescoed with episodes from the life of the saint. Along this corridor the friars have walked in procession every day at 3pm since 1431.
Halfway down the corridor is an ancient door that leads to a grotto with a large slab of stone at the end – ‘the bed‘ where the saint rested.
The Precipice, with a short walkway around the rock. Located at 1228 mt above sea level, it offers stunning views of the valley below. Soak in the silence, take time to enjoy it all.
The Quadrant – the paved square with a view, a large wooden cross, a sundial on the wall of the bell tower and a 16th-century well, that was used for pilgrims and guests.
The Basilica of the Sanctuary, which houses La Cappella delle Reliquie, and Santa Maria degli Angeli, a chapel founded by Saint Francis in 1216. Today, there are several small chapels conductive to prayer and meditation to visit, as well as a museum. The sanctuary has many important historical artefacts and a number of beautiful Della Robbia lead-glazed terracotta artworks.
The Sanctuary of La Verna is open daily from 6:30am until sunset. Masses are held several times a day. A visit here can be truly inspirational!
Val d’Orcia represents an important natural, artistic and cultural area. In 2004 it was added to the list of UNESCO World Cultural Landscapes for the excellently preserved panorama, which had a very strong impact on many Renaissance artists, and as “The Val d’Orcia is an exceptional reflection of the way the landscape was rewritten in Renaissance times”.
If you are staying in Siena, you could use a day or two and head south to explore the mystical countryside of Val d’Orcia, visit Pienza, Montalcino and other towns in the area. Between November and April you can still expect pleasant weather and avoid the stress of the high tourism season.
Pienza is a photogenic Renaissance-planned town nestled in the scenic landscape of Val d’Orcia on the Montepulciano – Montalcino axis. This is the best area to enjoy the quintessentially Tuscan landscapes with gentle, carefully cultivated hills, picturesque olive groves and vineyards and towns proudly marked with orange flags, awarded by the Touring Club Italiano (TCI) for excellency in hospitality and territorial identity.
Pienza’s history is tightly bound to Pope Pius II of the Piccolomini family, born here in 1405, and his will to transform in the 1400s the little medieval village named Corsignano into a truly Renaissance Papal residence, renamed Pienza after the Pope.
The Town Hall and the main buildings face Pienza’s main square, Piazza Pio II. Facing Town Hall is the Cathedral, a church whose simple Renaissance façade boasts the Piccolomini family coat of arms.
In this very square every year in September the Palio del Cacio al Fuso takes place: a contest, pitting six neighbourhoods of the town against each other, followed by a feast.
The target (il Fuso, a wooden spindle) is placed in the centre of a marble circle, left in Piazza Pio II by Bernardo Rossellino (sculptor and architect), and other circles are drawn in chalk around it. The players kneel on the carpet and roll a round of Pecorino di Pienza cheese, trying to aim as close to the centre of the ring as possible in order to score more points.
Il Caffè La Posta, the famous café on the corner of Piazza Pio II and Corso Rossellino, the setting for an Italian coffee brand ad in the 1990s. Italianize your coffee habits here: drink it standing up at the bar. Your coffee here is a must!
Nearby, the town’s main drag, Corso Rossellino, an atmospheric lane lined with shops featuring the work of artisans and producers.
A World Heritage Site since 1996, Pienza’s old town centre is probably the richest of Val d’Orcia in history, art and culture.
Sit at a café on the main square or wander the main street with a smattering of shops; head to an enoteca for a glass of Tuscan wine and find its perfect accompaniment savouring the delights of the area, like the aforementioned and delicious Cacio di Pienza. Take advantage… and maybe, take some home!
Montalcino, the wine-lovers’ paradise, is easily reached from Siena following the Cassia route ss2.
The historical centre of Montalcino is dominated by the mighty Rocca (the Fortress, built in 1361) that gives us a glimpse into the medieval town and offers dramatic views of the Orcia Valley.
The Clock Tower that graces Palazzo dei Priori (the city’s Town Hall), and the Gothic Loggia in Piazza del Popolo.
The narrow streets of Montalcino with their stone pavements are truly enchanting, and crawling with wine-loving tourists. In 1967, a small group of winemakers founded the Brunello di Montalcino consortium.
Head to the atmospheric enoteche to appreciate this famous wine, which ranks among Italy’s finest and most prestigious. Its precious formula, invented in 1888 by Ferruccio Biondi Santi, uses only Sangiovese grapes.
Crete Senesi is the area southeast of Siena, where the landscape is often described as lunar due to the distinctive grey colour of the soil. This characteristic clay represents the sediments of the Pliocene Sea which covered the area between 2.5 and 4.5 million years BP.
The semi-arid area known as the Accona Desert, characterized by calanques and dome-shaped formations (‘biancane’).
You can drive through the Tuscan countryside connecting the hilltown dots, and perhaps accompany this with a visit to some local producers.
Buonconvento is a medieval town 25 km southeast of Siena, that welcomes us to the Crete Senesi area. It is officially listed among the Most Beautiful Italian Villages. The old town centre is still surrounded by the walls built between 1371 and 1385 to defend and fortify the town.
The Church of SS. Peter and Paul houses an Enthroned Madonna with Child and Angels by Mateo di Giovanni (c. 1450) and a fresco of the early 15th-century Sienese School.
The buildings recount the history of the town, like the Town Hall façade with a clock and its 25 coats of arms of the podestàs, high officials who governed Buonconvento until 1270.
San Giovanni d’Asso, about 30 kilometres southeast of Siena, is overlooked by a large castle, now home to a large white truffle museum. There is a festival celebrating the rare and fragrant tuber each year – Sagra del Tartufo Marzuolo, in March.
Approaching Asciano..The Cacciaconti Castle of Trequanda
Asciano is a tiny town right in the heart of the Crete. Easy to visit and with its own subtle charms, I guess it remains a good stop.
A 5th century BC Etruscan necropolis excavated nearby and the Roman baths remains (with a fine mosaic pavement found in 1899) bear witness to the Etruscan and Roman former presence here.
The 11th-century Romanesque Basilica of Saint Agatha and its 13th-century bell tower.A Madonna with Child and the Archangels Michael and Gabriel by Girolamo del Pacchia.
Beautiful palazzi and travertine fountains.
Corso Matteotti introduces the visitor to the Gothic Church of San Bernardino and the Church of St. Augustine.
It doesn’t take long to walk each lane in the tiny town.
To conclude our tour is Locanda Amordivino, in Corso Matteotti, with gorgeous food and wines.
The history of Crete and Val d’Orcia dates back to the Etruscans and offers rich cultural experience, with lots of works of art, as well as high quality gourmet products, likei Pici (long thin homemade pasta typical of the Crete), i salumi di Cinta Senese, il Pecorino di Pienza, il Brunello di Montalcino, oil and saffron, that can be worth a short trip.
I found the whole area enchanting and a delight to explore, with all its rustic good living, gentle beauty and fascinating history. Of course, these towns make a great hill town day trip from Siena, and are best enjoyed by adapting to the pace of the countryside.
Situated in the green of the God’s Little Valley – as they call it, Caprese Michelangelo with its remote beauty is where the Renaissance God Michelangelo Buonarroti was born.
There’s something emotional about this atmosphere that welcomed the artist more than 500 years ago. Beech, chestnut and oak woods make the uncontaminated area particularly healthy, decidedly far from the busy city.
After having acquired the county of Arezzo in 1384, the Republic of Florence sent its nobility, the podestà (judicial administrators), to act as representatives in its new land. The areas of Caprese and Chiusi used to be under the same jurisdiction, so that the podestà in office had to reside alternatively six months in the Palazzo Pretotio in Caprese, and six months in the Rocca di Chiusi. Nearly a century later, in 1474, the nobleman Ludovico Leonardo Buonarroti was awarded the office of Podestà, and it was in this very period that the Renaissance genius Michelangelo Buonarroti was born, in Caprese on 6th March 1475.
Palazzo del Podestà, the birthplace of Michelangelo. Here the life of the most famous artist of all times began. The Museum in his childhood home now houses a documentation centre and a collection of photographic reproductions and plaster casts of the artist’s works.
The building with the double sloped roof, the masonry in irregularly shaped ashlars and the bell-gable with bells dating back to 1297 is the Church of St. John the Baptist. Michelangelo was baptized here. The church also houses a 15th century tabernacle by Cristofano di Landuccio.
If you like an autumn sagra, you should pay a visit to the chestnut festival held in October and try the famous Caprese chestnut, as well as lots of other delicious produce: mushrooms, honey, gorgeous cheeses, and even chestnut beer!
I was introduced to Castagnaccio by a Tuscan friend. Like most traditional recipes, this was originally a peasant’s dish. Chestnuts (Castagne) are the main ingredient here. At the beginning of the 19th century, when Castagnaccio was exported from Tuscany to the rest of Italy, raisins, pine nuts and rosemary were added to the recipe.
It’s made from chestnut flour and olive oil and has no raising agents. It’s not one of the cakes you are probably used to, it is rather a savoury bread. The sweetness comes from the nuts and dried fruit added to it.
Here’s my own way of making Castagnaccio, replacing some traditional ingredients like walnuts and rosemary with apples, and adding some apricot jam. It has worked really well for me. But you can also try making and decorating it with marrons glacés, hazelnuts or even chocolate chips.
Ingredients:
200g chestnut flour
30g sugar
300g water
a handful of raisins
a handful of pine-nuts
extra virgin olive oil
a pinch of salt
250g apricot jam
1 apple, cored, thinly sliced
10g butter, melted
4 teaspoons brown sugar,
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a 18-cm springform pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.
Put the flour in a bowl. Add a pinch of salt, then the sugar, whisk in the water very slowly till you get a rather liquid mixture without lumps. Now add 1 tbsp of olive oil, the raisins and the pine nuts. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and bake for 30 minutes at 180°C, until a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean. The castagnaccio is not ready if there are no cracks on the surface.
Take it out, let it cool, and cut into 2 layers. Spread the apricot jam between the layers, then stack and cover the cake, too. Arrange some apple slices on top, brush with melted butter and sprinkle with brown sugar and cinnamon combined in a bowl. Set the oven to grill and cook the cake for 5 more minutes.
As you can see, Castagnaccio is very easy to make, and offers lots of room for experimentation. It perfectly goes with a November afternoon espresso. You can serve it with a drizzle of honey, maple syrup, cashew cream… Or with some caramel panna cotta, like I usually do.
