Sansepolcro, A Treasure Trove of Art

Sansepolcro is a Tuscan town rich in history, art and traditions, situated in the idyllic Tuscan Tiber Valley. Once under Papal rule, the town then passed to the House of Medici and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany in the 15th century.

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The Cathedral, built in 1012, was initially dedicated to the Four Evangelists, whose relics had been brought here by two local pilgrims Arcano and Egidio on their return from the Holy Land. The name ‘Sansepolcro’, in fact, derives from the Holy Sepulchre. 

Here you can admire Il Volto Santo, an imposing wooden crucifix (9th century), and The Ascension of Christ, the fascinating Altarpiece by Perugino (1510). Next to the Cathedral is the 16th-century Palazzo delle Laudi, now the Town Hall.

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Sansepolcro is famous as the birthplace of Piero della Francesca (1416 – 1492). The great artist left a lot of works in his homeland, easily distinguished by the daring foreshortenings and beautiful views of the Valtiberina. Mementos of his days in the Upper Tiber Valley are everywhere and his major works may be seen in the Civic Museum.

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The Church of Saint Francis and, across the road, the artists’s birthplace in via Aggiunti.

Palio della Balestra is a 5-hundred-year-old cross bow tournament held annually in September between Sansepolcro and Gubbio. During the Middle Ages and early Renaissance such tournaments were aimed at encouraging the target practice by citizens in charge of the defence of their towns. Cosimo de Medici, while visiting Sansepolcro, took part in the Palio and even shot a crossbow himself. This is the time when Sansepolcro brings back to life the atmosphere of Piero della Francesca’s time, with colourful streets, beautiful Renaissance palaces and gorgeous costumes worn by madonnas and notables, just like those in Piero’s frescoes.

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Aboca Museum, an interesting herb museum with faithful reconstruction of ancient laboratories, that shares the ancient tradition of medicinal plants. The museum recounts herbal lore through the centuries, from the dawn of mankind’s existence, when medicinal herbs were eaten as they were or prepared very simply, followed by the alcoholic distillation discovery (X century AD), the development of alchemy centuries later, and finally, the nineteenth century pharmacy. Here’s the museum’s philosophy: “Medical plants are nature’s gift, created for all living beings“, and “If man so wants, he can find remedies to all his ills in nature“.

You can also visit the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie with a masterpiece by Raffaellino del Colle (1555) and the Church of San Lorenzo with a Deposition by Rosso Fiorentino (1528).

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Craftwork still plays an important role here, there are some restoration schools, ceramics workshops, goldsmith artists and lace production. Sansepolcro, I guess, is still pretty close to a place Piero could call home.

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Monte Santa Maria Tiberina, The Autumn Feast

Just a short drive out of Città di Castello, Monte Santa Maria Tiberina welcomes you with beautiful vistas and great food, where chestnut and oak forests spread out over the hillsides, and where truffles, porcini mushrooms, excellent olive oil and local wine dominate the menus!

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La Festa d’Autunno is the biggest festival of the fall season here, celebrating the chestnut harvest in the most delicious way!

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Feel free to take in the spectacular views during the fall foliage…

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Framing the festival, as usual, is the picturesque piazza, with live music and performances.

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An interesting  re-enactment of knights in combat by the Lupi di Ventura, the knights armament group from Città di Castello

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Monte Santa Maria Tiberina is really full of charm! The former Prime minister of Belgium, Guy Verhofstadt, has his summer retreat here. The town sits right at the border where Umbria meets Tuscany. It’s quite small, but there are several restaurants and cafes.

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You can visit Palazzo Bourbon, built in the 1500s, the castle and the lovely Church of Santa Maria (La Pieve), with an interesting baptismal fount and the Bourbon family chapel.

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You can savour the abundant chestnuts, gourmet food, artisan beer (including chestnut beer!), and sample a mouth-watering variety of chestnut foods.

Lunch at local taverna with gorgeous views
Lunch at local taverna with gorgeous views

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Treat yourselves to the local flavours: traditionally-made cheeses and salamis, porchetta, chocolate, honey and more. Local restaurants and food stalls are packed with nothing but life’s little pleasures 100% made in Umbria.

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There’s always something for everyone to enjoy!

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Bed & Breakfast Cà di Baldo, Città di Castello, Umbria

Cà di Baldo is a stunning b&b, tucked high in the hills near Città di Castello and the E45 highway. I’ll always remember my stay here. The owner spoiled us silly with heaps of fresh fruit, homemade jams, as well as gorgeous local wines.

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Although Cà di Baldo would be a winner by any standards, it is the genuine warmth and charm of the lovely hosts that make a stay here so outstanding.

For lunch or dinner, guests can prepare a light meal in their own kitchenette. The b&b has a beautiful pool with views of the valley, where you can really unwind and bask in the sun after a day out. It is the perfect location from which to wander around, and easily visit the Valtiberina and lots of famous cities of Umbria and the nearby regions. Perugia, Arezzo, Monterchi, Gubbio are in easy reach, and forays can also be made into neighbouring Marche, Emilia Romagna and the independent Republic of San Marino.

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Perugia, the Chocolate Capital of the World

Head to Perugia this weekend for Eurochocolate 2015, October 16 – 25. I don’t need to be convinced that nine out of ten love chocolate, and that the tenth one is, well, probably, lying…

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It is an annual international chocolate exhibition, where you get a chance to meet the best chocolate companies famous all over the world, chocolate experts, who can teach you a lot about chocolate, you can taste and purchase as much chocolate as you want. The choice is overwhelming!!!

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And since the Festival takes place in Perugia, it’s an opportunity to visit the main city of Umbria, and its beautiful monuments and squares. Just walk the little lanes that lead from one piazza to the next, assist various street performances, chocolate art displays with chocolate sculpting. The lanes follow the original medieval layout, whose roots go back to the Etruscan times.

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The city offers many attractions: beautiful historical buildings and palaces, real architectural masterpieces, and then, of course, the art of its native son Perugino (c.1446/1450-1523), an amazing Art Museum, Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, filled with works by famous Italian artists.

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The city, wrapped in dreamy views, has several universities, lots of hotels and restaurants, and musical history. Perugia’s location in central Umbria is surrounded by other gorgeous historic towns, which are easily reached by car, bus or train.

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Taleggio and Mushroom Stuffed Pancakes

If you haven’t already, it is high time to get in the mood for autumn! And if you like mushrooms as much as I do, you can’t go wrong with this recipe. Serves 4.

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Ingredients:

For the pancakes

  • 250ml milk
  • 125g plain flour
  • 3 eggs, lightly beaten
  • 30g butter
  • salt & freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

For the filling

  • 200g mushrooms, sliced
  • 2 shallots
  • 500ml milk
  • 50g butter
  • 50g flour
  • 100g  Taleggio DOP cheese
  • 50g  grated Parmigiano Reggiano DOP
  • 1 egg
  • grated nutmeg
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • salt & freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Place the beaten eggs and the flour into a large bowl and mix well. Gradually whisk in the milk until your batter gets the right consistency. Add 1 spoon of oil, a pinch of salt and a dash of pepper, cover and let it rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Heat a frying pan, butter it a bit each time you add a ladleful of the batter, and fry until golden on both sides, turning with a fish slice.

Clean and chop the shallots, simmer for 2-3 minutes in a frying pan with 1 spoon of olive oil. Add the sliced mushrooms, then the seasoning, stir and cook slowly in a covered pan for 10 minutes.

For your besciamella sauce: melt the remaining butter, work in the flour, add milk and cook until thick, stirring briskly, season with salt and grated nutmeg. Add half of this sauce to the mushrooms, along with the diced Taleggio cheese, 1 egg, and one-third of Parmigiano.

Put a tablespoon of filling centrally on each pancake, fold into envelopes, and place in a buttered ovenproof dish, cover with remaining sauce, sprinkle with remaining Parmigiano, and bake in a pre-heated oven at 180C for 20 minutes until golden brown.

Buon appetito!

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Glorious Barletta

Apulia boasts very rich culture and history, and because of its mild climate, beautiful sea and countryside, with olive groves everywhere, it attracts lots of tourists, especially in the summer. Its beaches can rival those more famous of Italy’s other regions.

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Barletta, a town on the Adriatic coast, is a pleasant place to stay and stroll, and, like some other nearby towns, evokes a day when impressive castles were home to Frederick II (1194-1250), when instead of soaring tall and vulnerable, castles had to be built massive and squat.

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The beautiful Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore, consecrated in 1267, was built on the former Neptune temple site. It houses tombs from the 3rd century BC, as well as the remains of 6th and 9th century basilicas.

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an unspoiled old quarter, via Duomo
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the Castle at night

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The Castle of Barletta is a must-see. Here, you get gorgeous views and a chance to visit one of the exhibitions held in the castle during the year.

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Eraclio, the Colossus of Barletta, is a bronze statue of a Roman Emperor (perhaps Theodosius II). Most likely, FrederickII, who had commissioned excavations in Ravenna (where the statue was discovered in 1231-1232), had it transported to his southern Italian lands. There are several legends saying that the statue washed up on a shore after a Venetian ship sank on its way back from Constantinople in 1204, or was even dropped into the sea because of its weight. And, according to a local folk story I really like, Eraclio saved the city from the Saracens: he waited for them on the sea shore and pretended he was crying; when asked why, Eraclio answered he was sad, because Barletta’s inhabitants would make fun of him as he was the smallest. So the Saracens left the coast, fearing to face the giants.

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Corso Vittorio Emanuele

The 12th-century Basilica di San Sepolcro, a Romanesque church with Oriental influences and historic connection with the Holy Land.

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La Disfida di Barletta, in September, recounts some important events, when in 1503 thirteen Italian knights, led by Ettore Fieramosca, challenged and defeated an equal number of French knights. These events were later narrated by an Italian statesman and novelist Massimo d’Azeglio (1798-1866) in his book Ettore Fieramosca o La Disfida di Barletta (1833).

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La Festa della Madonna takes place every second Sunday of July. It’s a celebration in honour of the patron saints La Madonna dello Sterpeto and San Ruggero, with decorations and lighting throughout the streets, a religious procession, live brass bands, ‘le bancarelle’ (plenty of stands), street performers, a funfair and a firework display.

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The archaeological site of Canne della Battaglia, 9km southwest from Barletta, where the Battle of Cannae took place on 2 August 216 BC. The army of Carthage, under Hannibal, defeated a larger army of the Roman Republic. That was one of the worst defeats in Roman history.

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Buongiorno!

In the afternoon, Barletta’s street life slows as the temperature soars. The town comes back to life in the early evening, the right time to enjoy a treat at one of the numerous cafès. I personally favour Bistrò Daloiso, in piazza Pescheria, and Pasticceria Daloiso, in via Indipendenza, also open in the mornings for a gorgeous breakfast. The choice is overwhelming, and the quality is outstanding, pretty much like the background of its founder, a young award-winning pastry chef Antonio Daloiso.

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Monterchi, an Autumn Invitation

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One of the great reasons to visit Monterchi is the extraordinary fresco of the Madonna del Parto (1455-1460) by Piero della Francesca (1415-1492), recently restored and now exhibited in a special display area in his mother’s native town.

Monterchi is a little Tuscan town, perched on a hill on the border with Umbria. It originated as a holy site for the Ancient Romans. The name derives from Heracles, ‘mons Herculi‘, who, according to the legend, founded the town after defeating the Hydra (the 9-headed monster, reproduced on the municipal coat of arms).

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Visit the picturesque Piazza Umberto I at the top of the old village. It is often turned into an open-air stage with bars, food stalls and souvenir stands during the local events like the polenta festival, Sagra della Polenta, which occurs annually in September. It’s a three-day event with dining and entertainment, as well as walks, concerts and contests. On the menu: sausages, mushrooms and polenta, of course.

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Montepulciano, Bravo!

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Our Tuscan stay-cation led us to Montepulciano (Siena) last week, a charming hill town in southern Tuscany that was important to both the Etruscans and the Romans. Like many Tuscan towns, Montepulciano sits on an Etruscan foundation.

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The town lived a period of splendour in the 15th century, when Florentine nobility built gorgeous ‘palazzi‘ as their summer residences.

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The Town Hall in Piazza Grande pretty much resembles the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.

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Recently, Montepulciano has attracted even more attention for its connection to the Twilight series of books and movies. Most of the second movie, New Moon, was filmed here.

The Bravio delle Botti, a fun barrel-rolling event takes place in Montepulciano on the last Sunday of August and it’s among Italy’s most curious festivals. This must-see event is a historical celebration of a challenge between the eight contradas, who once used the horses to compete. The colours, the coats of arms and the same ceremonial routines have been maintained since the ancient times.

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On Sunday morning in Piazza Grande the draw to determine the barrels’ starting positions takes place, followed by the offering of the votive candles to St. John in the Cathedral. In the afternoon 300 participants march in the historical parade. The barrel race begins at 7pm. The barrels, weighing 80 kg, are pushed and rolled between two athletes (called ‘pushers’), along the uphill route for about 1800 metres, winding around the picturesque streets of the historical centre, finally arriving at the top of the Cathedral steps in Piazza Grande. The winning contrada will be given the ‘bravium‘ (hence the name of the festival), a panel with an icon image of St. John, the city’s patron. Winners 2015: POGGIOLO, colours white and blue, coat of arms three mounds.

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You’ll get passionate about the local wine. The region focuses greatly on terroir – the unique characteristics of the soil and climate, which give their wine a sense of place.

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The Ercolani Winery in Via di Gracciano nel Corso welcomes visitors in the 14th-15th century Underground City with connection between seven historical buildings. The cantina offers free tastings of wine and local products (cheese, salami, extra virgin oil) and free visits of the ageing cellar, the medieval museum and the Etruscan tombs.

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It is run by two brothers, Carlo and Marco, who have been agricultural entrepreneurs for 30 years and who maintain the tradition of the Nobile di Montepulciano using the four native grapes: Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile), Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo and Colorino, which are hand harvested at maturation in October.

The wine is aged in oak barrels in the cellar of the underground city.
The wine is aged in oak barrels in the cellar of the underground city.

The Ercolani brothers’ winery, at the elevation of about 450 metres, is on 150 hectares of land, of which 14 are vineyards, 4 olive groves and the rest a combination of arable land, pasture and woods.

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Slow down...
Slow down…

Tuscan hill towns are best enjoyed by adapting to the pace of the countryside.

The Church of Sant'Agnese of Montepulciano
The Church of Sant’Agnese of Montepulciano
Piazzetta del Buonumore/ The Good Mood Square
Piazzetta del Buonumore/ The Good Mood Square

A presto!

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Anghiari, Overlooking History

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Anghiari is a medieval town lying between two rivers, the Tiber and the Arno. It is listed in the Most Beautiful Towns of Italy, and is famous for the battle of 1440, where the Milanese troups were defeted by the Florentines, setting the present day borders of Tuscany. The Battle of Anghiari was captured by Leonardo da Vinci, who ‘decorated’ the hall of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, commemorating the Republic’s important events.

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The Rocca was the first fortified core from which Anghiari was built. The powerful 13th century walls made the town an invincible fortress. The setting is really breathtaking, with a sweeping view of the valley below.

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There are two museums right in the heart of the historic centre: the Battle Museum in the 16th-century Palazzo del Marzocco, which tells the history of Anghiari through manuscripts, glazed ceramics and ancient firearms, and the Palazzo Taglieschi State Museum with a collection of sculptures and frescoes from Anghiari and the neighbouring towns. Artisan workshops and antiques restorers enrich the enchanting streets of the town.

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Assisi, Peaceful and Blissful

“Start by doing what is necessary,

then do what is possible,

and suddenly you are doing the impossible”

– Francis of Assisi

 

Once owned by the Roman Empire, Assisi is a beautiful Umbrian town of worldwide fame and an important place of pilgrimage.

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The Romans, who took control of central Italy in 295 BC, built the flourishing municipium Asisium on the western slopes of Monte Subasio. The city walls, the Forum, the Temple of Minerva are all Roman remains that can be found in Assisi today.

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Converted to Christianity in 238 AD by bishop Rufino, Assisi is bound with its native son –  St. Francis, born there in 1181/1182. Like Jesus, Francis taught by example, living without worldly goods and cherishing the beauty of nature and God’s wonderful creation.

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St. Francis of Assisi founded an order of friars in the town in 1208, while his female counterpart, Clare, went on to establish the order of the Poor Clares.

The magnificent Basilica of St. Francis, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000

This stunning 3-level Romanesque-Gothic Basilica was built in the 13th century and is decorated from top to bottom by precious frescoes by the leading Sienese and Florentine artists of the time. The crypt houses the body of St. Francis himself.

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In the nearby Basilica of St. Clare hangs the wooden crucifix St. Francis knelt before in 1206 to ask for guidance, and then followed the call to rebuild the Porziuncola Church in the valley right below Assisi. Today you will find the huge Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli built around it.

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Francis was proclaimed a saint by Pope Gregory IX in 1228, and shares honours with St. Catherine of Siena as the patron saint of Italy.

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